#ELLEfoodspot: the crazy charm of the Jardin de Maison Russe

Saturday 12:30 p.m., avenue Raymond Poincaré, and 39°C announced in the shade, will set the scene for my experience at Maison Russe.
Open since last October, this establishment of the Paris Society group to which we owe, among other things, the restaurant Mun on the Champs-Élysées, or CoCo at the Opéra Garnier, is in no way different from its big brothers. Expertly thought-out opulent decoration, the art of precision service, precise dishes, and luxury on all floors, are the guidelines of these places. Here, it’s chic, and it shows immediately. We come as much for the experience as the menu.

Recently, the establishment, nestled in the heart of a private mansion, opened the doors to its sublime garden. Between fringed fabrics, hypnotic whiteness, abundant greenery, floor lamps and openwork metal chairs, it is the whole fantasy of the old-fashioned family garden in a chic version that is played out here. All in a space of 1000 m2 – just that – huge and intimate at the same time. The tables are large enough, spaced out, and the decor acts as a screen between the spaces. In short, for the decor, nothing to say, Laleh Amir Assefi has perfectly succeeded with his scenography with a nicely old-fashioned charm.

A card with onions

Let’s go to the map. We can see the outlines of this Slavic dream that is Maison Russe. Vodka in almost every cocktail, caviar galore, salmon and blinis, or even pavlova for dessert, that’s it. But let’s not forget that we are in Paris, so the menu wants to be playful, and mixes different influences while respecting its classics.

Cocktails first. In the bullseye for the Kalska, a mixture of kombucha raspberry jasmine orange blossom, grapefruit, and orgeat. A shot of freshness that feels good in this crushing heat and which also reminds me of the orgeat that we tend to neglect in mixology. Second box full with the Dayukat with vodka, citrus fruit, black tea, lime mead, and pear. Intense and balanced, the perfect tea cocktail. Mixed opinion on the Tolstoy which combines clarified vodka with cream and coffee foam. It was however announced and the cocktail kept its promises, vodka and coffee which fully plays its bitterness. You have been warned.

The first entrée arrives beautifully dressed in its silver display case. The beef tartare is hidden under a thin layer of caviar, and the color of the meat is only revealed when tasted. From the first bite, my taste buds are conquered. Land-sea mix, seasoning, cutting the meat, presentation, nothing to add, it’s simply incredible. If you hesitate between several dishes, take only this one! Compared to this incredible starter, the salmon tartare, avocado, lime, seems a bit simple and already known, but it’s complicated to go after excellence, we know that.

On the main course, the poultry shashlyk – a divinely seasoned skewer – is accompanied by many elements and sauces that brighten up the meat. With its grilled vegetables that offer us a summer shot, its three refreshing sauces and its lemon, and this incredible crispy rice cake (although a little under-seasoned), it’s a festival of flavors on the plate . On the sea side, the cod fillet, green asparagus and white butter, plays classicism to perfection. Pearly fish, enveloping and gourmet sauce, and slightly crunchy vegetables, everything is good. If we quibbled, it would seem that three asparagus on the plate, it’s a bit light, especially when it’s so good!

The art of dessert

For dessert, the strawberry basil pavlova will not resist our spoon stroke or the ambient heat. In question, the ice cream that garnishes the heart of the dessert and refreshes the whole. As for the strawberry-basil duo, it works every time. But the real surprise is this chocolate tart which is simple only in name. Read instead. Sweet cocoa base, creamy white chocolate, puffed rice with praline and almond nougatine, cocoa nibs, creamy dark chocolate, crunchy tuile, and a scoop of vanilla ice cream make up this dessert. On the palate, the roasted notes of the nibs stand out clearly and take the pie elsewhere. Where, we do not know, but very far! A simple title that hides a complex dessert, in short everything we love.

In summary, at the Jardin de Maison Russe, in addition to a decor created and designed to perfection, the perfect execution of the beef tartare, the cooking of the fish, and the excellence of this chocolate tart, moved us and touched us in full heart. Just for that, thank you.

Russian House

59 avenue Raymond Poincaré
75 016 Paris

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